Island Fun

So I guess I brought endless swells with me to the North Shore. I'm not much of a big wave surfer, but I've really been having the time of my life here. For once I've been experiencing this place with friends and locals alike. Since it's been huge and windy the entire time, my friends and I have been venturing over to the west and east side of the island where smaller more protected fun waves can be found.

My friends and I debated all morning where to surf today. The waves are seriously massive. From my buddy Brent Bielman's porch we could see Pipeline cracking all morning and it looked super heavy and crowded. We finally sacked up and paddled out straight out into the Pupakea Death bar zone and tried to muster up the courage to drop in on a couple sandy bombs. I caught about three waves and then I couldn't get back out for about 20 minutes straight, Finally I called it quits and just went in. Jamie O'brien was even contemplating paddling out where we had just been pounded. He was actually really nice and friendly too. Right after I came in, I see my buddy Christian air drop in on his first wave, almost make it, get pounded, snap his two side fins out, and come in to talk about it. We decided to go surf a fun wave on the east side. We packed the car full of Aussie mates, Christian, Brent & I, and headed for some fun waves on the east side in Brent's mom's Rav 4. Somehow seven of us fit inside and all the boards managed to stay on the top with one janky strap. Haoles....