We just got back from surfing the raddest little coral reef break on the Westside of Amami. The reef is seriously amazing...bright blue crevices are cracked along the ocean floor reflecting the most wild colors when the sun pops out. It reminds me a lot of Kauai. The spot was way out there too. Almost a 20 minute paddle out. Amami is full of perfect point breaks if you get it on the right swell. It's one of those places you wait all year for the perfect storm. Wind, typhoon direction, and location all come into play when surfing here. It's been rather small while I've been here but super playful. Midori, the head hauncho, invited us to come share this paradise with him. He shreds too! Super cool dude. We're staying at his place called Green Hill where Mamasan makes breakfast and dinner everyday. The food is wild! Everything is from the sea. Fried fish is often served with some rice and seaweed galore. It's pretty different to what I used to but it's great to step outside my comfort zone and experience the cuisine of another culture. This is by far the raddest part of Japan I've ever been to and I can't wait to come back and score it when it's on.
Friday, May 28, 2010
What a trip! Japan is SO different. I feel like I'm in the future. You should see the view from my hotel right now. We're staying in pretty much a 5 star hotel over looking all of Tokyo. The past couple days I've been taking the train into Shibuya with my friends Tyler Warren, His girlfriend Taylor Simpkins, and my friends Harrison Roach and Matty from Australia. It's such a trip dude! I've been here four times now but every single time I've just been so amazed. The Japanese culture is so interesting. The clothing styles around Tokyo are pretty rad, everyone has their own style.
Yesterday we were shopping around and I ran into a Gotcha store! It's called G-Land. They sell Gotcha and MCD. I was so surprised when I rocked up there haha...I also spotted a kid wearing Gotcha and took a photo of him. He was stoked :)
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
So I guess I brought endless swells with me to the North Shore. I'm not much of a big wave surfer, but I've really been having the time of my life here. For once I've been experiencing this place with friends and locals alike. Since it's been huge and windy the entire time, my friends and I have been venturing over to the west and east side of the island where smaller more protected fun waves can be found.
My friends and I debated all morning where to surf today. The waves are seriously massive. From my buddy Brent Bielman's porch we could see Pipeline cracking all morning and it looked super heavy and crowded. We finally sacked up and paddled out straight out into the Pupakea Death bar zone and tried to muster up the courage to drop in on a couple sandy bombs. I caught about three waves and then I couldn't get back out for about 20 minutes straight, Finally I called it quits and just went in. Jamie O'brien was even contemplating paddling out where we had just been pounded. He was actually really nice and friendly too. Right after I came in, I see my buddy Christian air drop in on his first wave, almost make it, get pounded, snap his two side fins out, and come in to talk about it. We decided to go surf a fun wave on the east side. We packed the car full of Aussie mates, Christian, Brent & I, and headed for some fun waves on the east side in Brent's mom's Rav 4. Somehow seven of us fit inside and all the boards managed to stay on the top with one janky strap. Haoles....
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Monday, November 23, 2009
So we're hangin' out in Texas just fishing, riding Tanker waves, and doing a tour for my label Canvas Surfboards and Jon Steele's new movie Jazz The Glass. The tour has come to an end after touring Texas citites Galveston, Corpus Christi, and South Padre. Check out our first tanker wave EVER! So fun. The wave literally goes for five minutes + ! (photos courtesy of John Steele: http://deathweaselfilms.blogspot.com/)
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
Texas is a unique place for the pride and love they have for their state. Some things Texans indulge in include a love for fishing, football, hunting, four-wheelin', shootin' guns, chicks in Wrangler jeans, chewin' tobacco and Lonestar beer. We've been eatin' a whole lotta Whataburger and BBQ as well. The waves are few and far between but we did miss the swell by about a day. "Shoulda been here yesterday."